Although this thread is older than moses, so is this graphics card which I also own.
iT is a GeForce 3 ti200/500. I have an OEM version, which most people have, and is simply an exact duplicate of Nvidia's reference card. The reason is simple... Designing a high-speed graphics card is no easy task. The only way ANY graphics GPU vendor can sell chips, is to sell them to vendors who typically all duplicate the reference design.
Now, that being said, depending upon the age of your GeForce 3 card, the RAM speed will differ. The one I have with the same "model: P50" mark, is simply the same reference design, and in my case, is the ti200... But look at the RAM... Mine is 4ns RAM, the same as used in the ti500. If you enable the Nvidia "cool bits" registry key, it enables the full user i/f with a clocking tab. You can then overclock the ti200 to above the ti500 speeds which at the time, sold for a huge premium.
However, again, since these cards are alll based on the reference design, it's totally up to the company selling/making them, how they want to clock them, heatsink them, and sell them as...
Like I said, if your RAM is under 6ns, then it's used on both the ti200 and ti500.... Thus, the only difference is the clock speeds set by the mfr., and, the heatsinking on the RAM and forced cooling on the GPU.
Since mine was a ti-200 OEM from Dell, the RAM had no heatsinks, and the GPU had a passive heatsink. I enabled the OC settings and after a stern warning from Nvidea's driver about "possible HW damage", you can then set the clocks way higher than the HW can manage.
Also, there's space for TV-out HW, but it's deleted from the OEM version. It does have Both analog and digital video outputs however.
By adding a CPU fan to the GPU, and glueing on makeshift RAM heatsinks, I could crank up both the GPU and RAM clocks to above the ti-500 premium card.
WARNING... If you do decide to OC, walk it up slowly, and play some graphics 3d game to heat it up... At best. you will hit the edge and begin to see sparkles or similar artifacts... This means you're maxing out the chipset thermally. Depending upon your cooling, you can max out both the RAM, and GPU but if you go too far and "crank it", you WILL lock up the system.
I forget the numbers I can crank too, but it's above the ti-500 using an add-on GPU fan, and passive heatsinks on the RAM.
Like I said, this is an OEM cheap-ass version... The $$$ Geforce 3's have major heatsinks, and fans!
Again, the GPU's are both the same... It's the RAM speed which was different between the ti-200 and ti500. Later cards were sold as ti-200s, but have the 4ns RAM which you can clock up to 250MHz compared to the stock 175MHz. I've maxed out at 255 for the RAM and things start to artifact (malfunction). The GPU can take 450MHz which puts the ti-200 card above the ti-500. The cooler you keep the chips, the higher you can clock them.
For the braver soles, you can also up the GPU core Vcc and crank it more, but you would definately need some major cooling for it to function... The newer Nvidea chipsets have thermal monitors... AFAIK, the Geforce 3 chips have no thermal reporting ability though that could simply be a BIOS limitation, a realm I desire not to walk into without a backup card...! I do have a BIOS editor for Nvidea, but again, w/o a backup card, I ain't walking that road!
Finally, there are several revision numbers on the card:
The PCB, as mentioned prior is "model P50".
The main M/N is MS-8851, V120.
The assy build version is "Rev A03".
And the FCC reg. number.. (the actual mfr) is TW-07j 062-69700-1AD-1494.
(that would be Thaiwan)
This is the number all cards must have and can be looked up at the FCC web site to determine who actually builds the cards.
If you want to overclock yer GeForce 3, lookup "coolbits". it's a single registry key which you add, and set the value to 0x01 (I think). Look it up...
Good luck and regards,
P.S. OK, Here'sa a HUGE possible issue. I just puled my system apart to un-dust it and alarmingly, some PS caps on the GeForce are failing and you MUST check them before they fail!
right side, component side of card, are 5 electrolytic caps, two small, three large. Of the three large, two are bulging and one is close to blowing it's seal and shows signs of leaking electrolyte. A second one is buldging, but the seal is intact. The third looks normal.
These caps are on the main power planes. Years ago I read about how many Aibit MOBOs had defective caps from the same vendor and people had caps blowing up. Never heard of any issue with Nvidia cards, but I haven't fully researched it and the visual inspection shows a clear problem which I must correct so the card does not fail completely.
Each capacitor spot has 4 to 5 component ID's which is kind of unusual. But these are the three large 470µF/16VDC caps at the edge of the PCB. Other model cards may differ. but look at the tops of the larger caps. The cans have several "score marks" which are there to alow the can to vent if the internal pressure gets to high. Like a soda can, with a weakened pop tab, so it can blow...
Anyway, hope some people still have these now ancient cards, got some info from this post, and maybe caught those caps before they failed... Looks like I need to get out the soldering iron...